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Raw Power

Continued from page 1

Published on February 23, 2005

All of this brings us to the service, probably the best part of Modai. Every member of the waitstaff I encountered was friendly to a fault and eager to please. They're as good at making menu recommendations as they are at making chitchat, and I'd return just to small-talk with the bartender. Toward the end of one visit, a manager speedily came over to inquire how our meal had been. When we told him we lived nearby, he remarked that, for as much as Modai has spent on advertising, it seems plain old word-of-mouth and nearby-neighbor curiosity has propelled their business so far. Considering the neighborhood feel to the place, that sounds about right.

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