Sí Me

The dessert list is short and sweet. Both the flan (custard) and the sopaipilla (two scoops of vanilla ice cream perched atop a fried flour tortilla, kissed with honey and chocolate syrup) were fantastic. Fried ice cream was a buzzkill, brought down by a stale and soggy fried tortilla exterior. Another letdown was the margarita. Mi Ranchito is bedecked with mucho signage touting its 46-ounce "monster" margarita (also available in smaller quantities), but this drink is a big wimp. Whether you get it frozen (dispensed from a slush machine in lime, strawberry or piña colada) or fresh, it's concocted with neon-green sour mix poured out of a plastic jug. That misdemeanor gets elevated to felony status if you order it with a top-shelf tequila like Patrón or Milagro, neither of which can tame the sour mix's blunt, saccharine flavor.

There's no crime, of course, in taking your tequila straight — or raising a toast to Alicia Aguirre and her Ranchito.