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Tucker's in Soulard stands right next to John D. McGurks. Esquire named McGurks one of the best bars in America in their June issue. Tucker's has no such accolades from that magazine, but an illuminated sign behind the bar touts their "award winning quality steaks" and the lack of punctuation between the words seems to give it an inferiority complex which we, geekily, find amusing: "Well, the steaks aren't 'award-winning,' per se," it seems to demure, "but there are some qualities about them that might be."
Tucker's has a nice selection of beer, a less-nice selection of wine. But that's not why we're here anyway, so no matter. Still, we order a half-carafe of their house Cabernet, Oak Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, a bargain at $9.75. It's a nice-enough (if a bit dull) complement to the meal, though its most outstanding quality is the sheer amount that's put on the table in front of us. We always thought that "half-carafe" translated roughly into "eh, a little more than two glasses of wine." Actually, "carafe" is thought to come from the Arabic word "garafa," which means "to ladle." And ladle we did, pouring the wine into our glass over and over and over.
Naturally, Drink of the Week's favorite Bible story is the ol' water-into-wine miracle at wedding of Cana, and we thought of this as the carafe seemed to replenish itself from some secret chamber within. Muscling our way through the shrimp appetizers, the genetic monstrosity of a baked potato and the fist-sized filet itself, we refilled our glass at first with gusto, then less so as, the carafe (like our stomach) remains largely full, never receding.
We've long considered it to be something of a sin to leave a drink not fully drunk, but this carafe was one of biblical proportions. Miracles of miracles, we left a third of it on the table and stepped out into the cool night air. The rain, we notice, had stopped.
Got a drink suggestion? E-mail kristie.mcclanahan@riverfronttimes.com