Hold the Moustache: Fumanchu, the prodigious Mike Johnson's latest offering, is all over the Asian map

The sushi selection is limited to rolls. There are familiar American varieties (Philadelphia, California) as well as a few originals. I'm not a big fan of sushi rolls, but I have to say the "Fumanchu" was tasty. The roll featured spicy tuna, snow crab and smoked salmon, but what gave it zip was an atypical (for sushi) combination of smoky hoisin sauce and wasabi aioli that had been drizzled on top.

The beer and wine selections are rudimentary, with the former featuring several common Asian brews. If nothing else, I think this is the first restaurant where I've seen Kirin on tap. (Not that I pine after Kirin.) Among the signature sake cocktails, the Ryland Island is especially delicious: a mix of sake with a little simple syrup and fresh lime juice. And of course there is that Buttery Nepal, crafted from butterscotch schnapps, Irish cream and Absolut Vanilia. Order it with a straight face, if you can.

A server described the Ryland Island as akin to an Asian mojito. Inelegantly put, perhaps, but not untrue. Oddly, that cocktail might be the most inventive item served at Fumanchu. For the most part, the place offers well-executed variations on long-familiar fare. Unless you are an absolute newcomer to Asian cuisine, nothing here will take you anywhere you haven't been before.

As a concept, though, Fumanchu's impressive: The food is a good value — most dishes are priced under $10 — the vibe is laid-back and the servers are attractive. If I were a businessman looking for a template to replicate, I'd take note.

It'd need a really great name, though. Something to give it an edge, maybe even something a teensy bit politically incorrect.

Ideas, anyone?