"Oh man!" went the refrain from far and wide earlier this year, "Mangia got a 3 a.m. license? Now I'll never leave!" Long a regular stop on any self-respecting hipster's nightly rounds, Mangia Italiano, by the look of things, already had it all (There's reliably good food! There's Dave Stone playing amazing jazz! There's cheap Falstaff! There's Betsy!), but the expansion of a bar's business day by just two little hours can create a brand-new mindset -- in essence, a brand-new bar. The drinks can seem a little stranger, the freaks might get a little freakier and your friends will soon be a little friendlier. There's a huge difference between the second-to-last and the last bar you go to, and Mangia "after hours" is a welcome addition to this city's small selection of late-night drinking destinations -- the best new bar in St. Louis that has been around for twenty years.