The key to the torta — the classic Mexican sandwich: meat, lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado, cheese and jalapeños — is the bolillo, a plump roll with a crusty exterior and a soft, white interior. It needs to stand up to the sandwich's ample filling, but it also must have character of its own. Taqueria el Torito, the restaurant inside El Torito market, has very good bolillos, and you can sample them via thirteen different tortas. Best might be the carnitas, with its deeply flavored pork, though the chorizo offers similar porky pleasure with a little extra spice. Other choices include steak, tongue, bread and fried chicken. And no matter which you select, you get a free bowl of the day's soothing homemade soup.