Restaurant Reviews (477 Reviews)

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The Pla Song Kruang Remains the Same: Basil Spice puts the newest Thai twist on South Grand The Pla Song Kruang Remains the Same: Basil Spice puts the newest Thai twist on South Grand
As I ate lunch at Basil Spice, a slow, bittersweet melody played over the restaurant's speakers. I hummed along with the climactic passage: hum... More>>
Published: May 07, 2008
Do you miss good ol’ home cookin’? Revival wants to raise your spirits. Do you miss good ol’ home cookin’? Revival wants to raise your spirits.
Revival is an audacious name for any new restaurant, let alone one that's replacing an institution as beloved and influential as King Louie's.... More>>
Published: April 30, 2008
Lust for Crust: Katie's ain't your typical St. Louis pizza joint Lust for Crust: Katie's ain't your typical St. Louis pizza joint
A neon sign hanging in the window of Katie's Pizzeria Café advertises Budweiser "N" pizza. This is, technically, true. You can order both... More>>
Published: April 23, 2008
Heat Rises: Pappy's Smokehouse elevates humble barbecue to ethereal heights Heat Rises: Pappy's Smokehouse elevates humble barbecue to ethereal heights
Not even a minute after I first walked into Pappy's Smokehouse, the fantastic new midtown barbecue joint, I thought I was busted. I might as well... More>>
Published: April 16, 2008
Peak Performance Peak Performance
Opening a good restaurant is miracle enough. I don't mean a four-star temple of haute cuisine or a bauble of glass and light the trend-humpers... More>>
Published: April 09, 2008
Want Boba with That?: Fast and good Vietnamese food at BBC Banh Mi, Boba Tea & Crêperie Want Boba with That?: Fast and good Vietnamese food at BBC Banh Mi, Boba Tea & Crêperie
They are laughing at me. I'm sure of it. Two young women. College students, I think, home for spring break. They are looking at me — not... More>>
Published: April 02, 2008
Asia, Lumiere Place's Chinese/Thai/Vietnamese/Japanese chow parlor/sushi bar, is all over the map Asia, Lumiere Place's Chinese/Thai/Vietnamese/Japanese chow parlor/sushi bar, is all over the map
Asia, the continent, encompasses more than 50 countries and some 4 billion people. It stretches from Istanbul to Vladivostok, from the Arctic... More>>
Published: March 26, 2008
Building a Better Bistro: Chef Andy White proves there's life after Balaban's at Off the Vine Building a Better Bistro: Chef Andy White proves there's life after Balaban's at Off the Vine
How all of this compares to Balaban's in 1972, 1992 or even last year, I can't say. But I do know that when I return to the restaurant, it won't... More>>
Published: March 19, 2008
Grand Old Patty: Ian goes on a beefy binge at Burger Bar and Sub Zero New American Burger Restaurant Grand Old Patty: Ian goes on a beefy binge at Burger Bar and Sub Zero New American Burger Restaurant
If you order the "Rossini" burger at Burger Bar in Lumière Place, expect a little extra attention. The runner who brought the burger to my... More>>
Published: March 12, 2008
Can Taqueria los Tarascos' tacos make you feel homesick for a place you've never lived? Si! Can Taqueria los Tarascos' tacos make you feel homesick for a place you've never lived? Si!
The lamb barbacoa at Taqueria los Tarascos is served in a small chafing dish. The little blue flame heating the bowl of meat gutters as your... More>>
Published: March 05, 2008
Feel a Draught?: Tigín opens an outpost in a Hampton Inn downtown? O'Really! Feel a Draught?: Tigín opens an outpost in a Hampton Inn downtown? O'Really!
I've visited restaurants in some strange locations. I've logged probably thousands of miles driving through St. Louis' suburban sprawl, searching... More>>
Published: February 27, 2008
Curious Gorge: Ian tests the animal magnetism of Three Monkeys Curious Gorge: Ian tests the animal magnetism of Three Monkeys
It's a bitterly cold afternoon. The low, gray sky can't decide between a half-hearted snow and a miserable drizzle — call it a snizzle, and... More>>
Published: February 20, 2008
Will Ian flip for the Original Pancake House? Will Ian flip for the Original Pancake House?
I don't doubt there is a circle of Hell reserved for restaurant critics, and I'm reasonably certain it looks like the long stretch of... More>>
Published: February 13, 2008
Eat Food, Not "Food"
Michael Pollan's new book, In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto, answers the question posed by his revelatory 2006 tome, The Omnivore's... More>>
Published: February 13, 2008
Ian's got the skinny on the new Flaco's Ian's got the skinny on the new Flaco's
I'm supposed to mention that Flaco's Cocina, which opened late last year in the Soviet Bloc-style strip mall and office complex at the... More>>
Published: February 06, 2008
Mystery Meat
Gut Check, the Riverfront Times food blog, offers food and restaurant news, reviews of restaurants and food-related books — and lots and... More>>
Published: February 06, 2008
Agave gives Mexican cuisine the white-tablecloth treatment.
For the second week in a row, this column finds me in Forest Park Southeast's Grove neighborhood, a once rundown area trying to rebuild itself... More>>
Published: January 30, 2008
Grub Street Grub Street
On the first day of the art history class I took in high school, the teacher asked us to define "art." I assumed this was a rhetorical question... More>>
Published: January 23, 2008
India à la Mode India à la Mode
As its name might suggest, the "Bollywood Popper" at the four-month-old Indian restaurant Rasoi looks something like a jalapeño popper.... More>>
Published: January 16, 2008
Just Ducky Just Ducky
In 2006 the Chicago City Council attracted much attention — and not a little scorn — when it banned foie gras from restaurants. Foie... More>>
Published: January 09, 2008
Eh ~scape Eh ~scape
A restaurant critic's resolutions for 2008: 1) I won't always clean my plate, even when I dislike something, just because that's the way I was... More>>
Published: January 02, 2008
Dinner Is Served Dinner Is Served
In the past twelve months, I've reviewed 62 restaurants (and one minor-league baseball stadium). I've traveled to Columbia and the Metro East.... More>>
Published: December 26, 2007
Fat City, Baby! Fat City, Baby!
A chilly September night. My girlfriend and I are standing outside Niche, waiting for a cab that won't arrive. We're tipsy from the wine... More>>
Published: December 19, 2007
Center Cut Center Cut
"Joe Buck just walked by." My wife turned, but she was too late. The fair-haired broadcaster and scion of St. Louis royalty was gone. Had I... More>>
Published: December 12, 2007
Study in Scarlet Study in Scarlet
A thumbnail sketch of Red sounds like a Saturday Night Live skit circa 1992. The three-month-old loft district restaurant-slash-lounge is a... More>>
Published: December 05, 2007
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