Ian Froeb
The smoked chicken pizza at Onesto Pizza & Trattoria, with a glimpse of the author's wife's elbow.
No, there is no reason for barbecue chicken pizza to exist. Except when it's awesome.
The smoked chicken pizza at Onesto Pizza & Trattoria isn't simply a rare example of a great barbecue chicken pizza. It's a great pizza, period.
The pizza's name holds the first clue to its success: The chicken is smoked -- beautifully so, the moist meat rich with the flavor of woodsmoke. Pieces of thickly sliced bacon amp up the pizza's smokiness even further -- and prove, once again, that pizza and pork are meant to be together.
The tangy barbecue sauce, judiciously applied on the thin, pleasantly chewy crust, has a mild heat and a faint sweetness. For a more intense heat and a (in this case welcome) sweetness, there are roasted jalapeños and caramelized onions. The mozzarella and cheddar cheese are more accent than main ingredient -- or, if you like, a reminder that you can proudly call this a pizza, barbecue sauce and all.
Onesto Pizza & Trattoria
5401 Finkman Street
314-802-8883
$16.95 (14-inch), $20.95 (18-inch)
I'm counting down -- in no particular order -- 100 of my favorite dishes in St. Louis. Some are well-known, others obscure. Some are expensive, others dirt cheap. All of them, I guarantee, are delicious. Please do not hesitate to share your own favorites via the comments thread.
Previously:
#33: The baby-back ribs (or the burger) at the Piccadilly at Manhattan
#34: Albóndigas caseras con patatas at the Guido's Pizzeria & Tapas
#35: The "Sweet Burger" at SweetArt
#36: Buffalo fries at Blueberry Hill
#37: Tom yum gai at Pearl Café
#38: Cassoulet (and Sweetbreads) at Franco
#39: The "Papasan Roll" at Miso on Meramec
#40: Lasagna at Mama Josephine's
#41: The "Bucktown" Pizza at Pi Pizzeria
#42: Pla song kruang at Basil Spice Thai Cuisine
#43: Chori pollo at Mi Ranchito
#44: Pizza at La Pizza
#45: Fried chicken at Young's Restaurant & Ice Creamery
#46: The Philly Cheesesteak at 9th Street Deli
#47: Smoked chicken wings at Flavors BBQ Sports Bar & Grill
#48: Coffee and a pastry at 222 Artisan Bakery
#49: The torta ahogada at Taqueria Durango
#50: The "Morganford Mediterranean" Sandwich at Local Harvest Café & Catering
