Christina and Enrique Robles were supposed to wait three years before opening another restaurant. Maybe two, but definitely not a mere 15 months after opening their popular South Grand Tex-Mex spot, Padrinos, which welcomed its first guests in September of 2022.
However, their timeline accelerated when Enrique learned of a potential opportunity to partner up with a couple of friends on a project located in a south city restaurant space near Hodak's. Ultimately, that fell through, but not before it sparked something in the Robleses.
"After we went through all of that, it kind of psyched us up and made us wonder, 'Should we be thinking about it? Should we continue looking?' And we ultimately decided that we thought we should," Christina Robles says. "It's still scary, but we figured we know what to expect because we've been down this road once already. Wherever we look will be different, but we know we can do it."
That quest for an additional location has resulted in Sal y Limón (1221 Strassner Drive, Brentwood; 314-282-0022, salylimonstl.com), which opened in Brentwood this past December. Though the restaurant carries over most of the specialities the Robleses and their business partners, Rafa Rosas and Ciro Trapala, have become known for at Padrinos — overstuffed burritos, fajitas, chimichangas and enchiladas — they have given Sal y Limón its own distinct personality in the form of a more modern, subdued interior and an impressive tequila selection that Robles hopes to expand and make the restaurant's anchor.
Robles is especially excited about the bar at Sal y Limón, particularly in light of its former life as the happy-hour hot-spot Houlihans, which operated in the space until November of 2019. Though she wouldn't necessarily consider herself a regular, Robles frequented the restaurant and remembers being impressed by its atmosphere and food. Mostly, though, she loved the way it felt like it was a place people could come together to connect over snacks and drinks, and she's hoping to recreate that vibe with Sal y Limón.
"I had in mind the idea of bringing people together after the dinner hour so they could have conversation around this huge bar, maybe with entertainment," Robles says. "I really want this to be a place for people to sit, have some street tacos, enjoy a small late night menu, have conversations and meet up with people for happy hour. COVID may have changed the way that looks, but I think it's going to come back."
For now, the Robleses and their partners are pushing to make that happen. When you walk into the space, you feel the bones and sleekness of the old Houlihan's, albeit with a Mexican inflection. Lime green accent walls contrast with midnight blue paint and forest green leather banquettes. Black and white photographs of scenes from Mexico and some folk-style paintings adorn the walls, and the large u-shaped bar has been inlaid with vibrant painted tiles that are perhaps the biggest change from its predecessor. These touches add a brightness to the space, but it is much more subtle than the technicolor decor of Sal y Limón's South Grand sister restaurant. A patio that can accommodate roughly 50 diners faces the Hanley Road side of the restaurant.
Sal y Limón's menu is nearly identical to that of Padrinos; guests who have come to love the restaurant's mouthwatering carnitas will be happy to see them make an appearance here in all of their caramelized, fork-tender glory. Street tacos are another highlight, including the beautifully seasoned al pastor and chorizo versions. A ground beef chimichanga, smothered in rich queso, is another decadent crowd pleaser.
However Say y Limón has two notable additions to its offerings that stand apart from Padrinos. Here, guacamole is prepared tableside and is customizable with roma tomatoes, yellow onions, garlic, jalapeños and cilantro, which gives it more of an elevated feel. Another specialty at the Brentwood location is the carne asada, which pairs marinated skirt steak with street corn, Mexican rice and refried beans.
Robles admits that running two restaurants has been a challenge, especially in the wake of a fire on May 31 that started from a faulty motor on a piece of equipment in Padrinos' kitchen and caused smoke damage throughout the restaurant. Because the fire was quickly caught and then extinguished, she is hopeful that Padrinos can reopen in a few weeks. That, coupled with staffing issues and product shortages that have plagued the restaurant industry for the last few years, can sometimes make it feel as if things are just more difficult than they should be. Still, she, her husband and their partners believe in their vision and are going to keep on moving forward, knowing that making their guests happy is worth it all in the end.
"Like I said in the beginning, this is going to be a hard road ahead but, eventually, it will pay off," Robles says.
Sal y Limón is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
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