SOUTH COUNTY
J's Pitaria
Like blintzes made from phyllo, Zamir Jahic's pitas are stuffed, rolled and baked so that the exterior gets golden and flaky while the interior remains gooey and tender. Ordered by the pound rather than by the piece, the pitas come both sweet and savory. The latter include a simple cheese version, which oozes with mild and gooey kajmak, a housemade buttery spread that is like the lovechild of feta and boursin cheese, making for a pillow-soft, cheesy version of a fried spring roll. More traditional sandwiches at J's Pitaria (91 Concord Plaza Shopping Center, 314-270-8005) include a wonderful doner kebab and a Bosnian-style chicken panini. No alcohol; counter service. $. Open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Liliana's Italian Kitchen
The intoxicating scent of garlic, Parmesan and dough that greets you upon arrival to Liliana's (two locations including 11836 Tesson Ferry Road, 314-729-1800) is a precursor for what's to come, which really ought to begin with an order of cheese garlic bread. At this charming, old-school Italian joint, chef/owner Tim Pieri dips crusty Italian bread into a concoction of melted butter, garlic and Parmesan, then covers it in mozzarella cheese before placing it in the oven. The result is a cheesy, butter-saturated wonder. Housemade meatballs and eggplant lasagna are equally dazzling, while the St. Louis-style pizza may well be the best in town. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Drive-through window for pizza.
Nubby's BBQ
What started as an unlikely bastion of barbecue at the All American Sports Mall in south county has become one of the area's most delicious smokehouses. There have been some changes over the past year. Nubby's BBQ (6030 Telegraph Road, 314-293-9686) now boasts a standalone second location on Telegraph and has new owners after founder Matt Hines took over longtime south county institution Roberto's. One thing that hasn't changed, though, is that Nubby's continues to serve up top-tier barbecue and delicious deep-fried finger foods, like a handmade crab Rangoon that is rolled up like a taquito. The brisket, the pulled pork and the Texas-style burnt ends will have you coming back for more, but the sleeper hit just might be the pizza, which has nearly eclipsed the barbecue — a major feat considering how delicious that 'cue is. $$. Opens 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday.
Twisted Tree Steakhouse
Anything you might presume about Twisted Tree (10701 Watson Road, Sunset Hills; 314-394-3366) based on its location in a Holiday Inn parking lot will get checked at the door, as the fast-food joints and chain stores of Sunset Hills give way to a sophisticated bar that could be a million light years away — or at least several miles to the northeast in Clayton. Dim lighting and sleek, backlit finishes illuminate a lounge packed with would-be patrons waiting upward of two hours for a table. It's not just hype; Twisted Tree's food is worth waiting for. The onion rings are famous, the steaks are expertly cooked and the batter-dipped lobster tails are terrific. Even the salads (made tableside to your specifications) are seriously good. The service, too, is impeccable. $$$-$$$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Yolklore
Owner Mary Boehne could have done just about anything in the food world, but she chose to focus on breakfast and lunch for her first restaurant, Yolklore (8958 Watson Road, Crestwood; 314-270-8538). At this counter-service spot, you'll see the same thought given to bacon and eggs as you'd see in an entrée special at a trendy evening bistro. This results in innovative dishes, such as Yolklore's signature Nest Egg, a biscuit-like shell filled with eggs, bacon, cheese, pickled onion and preserved lemon, and a frittata with goat cheese, mushrooms and tomato jam. Don't let the innovative menu items fool you, though. Yolklore is equally the place to go for the old-fashioned comfort of biscuits and gravy or a slinger. No matter what you choose, you can be in and out in a flash — or simply head through the drive-through for the best fast food you can get. No alcohol. $. Open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday — and 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekends.
MARYLAND HEIGHTS
DD Mau
The name DD Mau (11982 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights; 314-942-2300) roughly translates to "hurry up" or "let's go." But for all its speed, the counter-service spot takes no shortcuts. Owner Julie Truong's food is both innovative and fiercely authentic, customizable yet appealing to fans of traditional Vietnamese food. A vermicelli bowl features such traditional accouterments as crushed peanuts, cilantro and pickled vegetables, but it can be tossed with a dressing, such as the funky Vietnamese vinaigrette, which infuses it with depth and heat. All bowls come with your choice of protein. Spring rolls, pho and banh mi round out a perfectly executed menu. No alcohol. $. Open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Closed Sunday.
El Morelia Supermercado
On the surface, El Morelia Supermercado (12005 St. Charles Rock Road, Bridgeton; 314-209-0014) is an expansive Latin-food grocery store where customers can find anything from crispy bolillos to mortars carved from volcanic stone. But on the weekends, El Morelia Supermercado transforms into a pop-up taqueria. Ricos Tacos stand sets up inside and serves up fare that will spoil all other tacos for you. Protein offerings include steak, marinated pork, carne asada, lengua (cow tongue) and more. Plus, there's a bar with fresh salsas and toppings, so you can curate each bite to your liking. Take a break from shopping to enjoy some of the most authentic street tacos in the St. Louis area or go to Bridgeton solely to enjoy El Morelia's food. Either way, city dwellers will find its worth the drive. $. El Morelia Supermercado is open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday but closes an hour early on Sunday. Find tacos from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends.
Serra's Pizzeria
St. Louis-style pizza is one of those polarizing points of discussion — you either love it or you hate it. But at Serra's Pizzeria (12218 McKelvey Road, Maryland Heights; 314-739-0881), you'll love it no matter your stance. Tucked into an unassuming building next to a strip mall off a busy Maryland Heights street, the pizzeria specializes in our beloved thin-crust pie. Each 'za is made with Provel cheese, the St. Louis way, and the list of toppings is neverending. But the menu doesn't begin and end with pizza. With sandwiches, pasta, burgers, salads, eggplant or chicken Parmesan, fish filet and more, there's something for everyone within the bounds of Serra's menu. $. Closed Monday. Open Tuesday through Thursday, as well as Sunday, from 4 to 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. to midnight.
Westport Social
The massive, 12,500-square-foot Westport Social (910 Westport Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights; 314-548-2876) is sleek and stylish, with two rooms featuring everything from foosball tables to bocce courts to full-size basketball pop-a-shot setups. Food and drinks match the modern vibe, nodding at classic bar food but transcending the baseness often associated with the genre. The pizza and burgers are both solid choices, and if the nachos show that the kitchen can elevate classic appetizers, the wings prove they can put them on a jewel-crusted pedestal. The plump drummies and wings are smoked, infusing the juicy meat with flavor without overtaking it. $-$$. Opens daily at 11 a.m.; open until 1 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 p.m. Sunday.
FERGUSON, FLORISSANT, HAZELWOOD
Cathy's Kitchen
Inspired by her culinary trips around the U.S., Cathy Jenkins opened Cathy's Kitchen (250 South Florissant Road, Ferguson; 314-524-9200) as a way for diners to eat their way around the country without ever leaving north county. Her menu is divided not by starters, entrees or sandwiches but by state, each category filled with the specialties she enjoyed from each place. Look for Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches, New Orleans jambalaya and Memphis-style pulled pork on this edible road trip in the heart of Ferguson. $. Outdoor seating. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
Hendel's Market Café & Piano Bar
The Old Town Florissant digs housing Hendel's (599 Saint Denis Street, Florissant; 314-837-2304) have a colorful past: The century-old storefront used to be a grocer. But there's nothing old-fashioned about the food. Try the German potato soup with its zippy hint of vinegar or the smoked shrimp en croute; there's also a full menu of steaks, chicken, fish and pasta. Other perks include enthusiastic, rosy-cheeked service; a comfy dining room; and outside seating in a serene garden. Kids' menu. $$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Kaslik
Chef and co-owner Wesam Hamed, whose résumé includes such notable spots as Ranoush and Layla, has been cooking his delicious Palestinian fare in north St. Louis County since 2013, first opening Kaslik (7847 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Hazelwood; 314-972-8282) in Florissant before moving to its current home. The place is a charmer, with thoughtful touches throughout and equally good food. Hamed's signature shawarma remains excellent. Likewise, the lamb chops, falafel and hummus are so authentic you might be convinced you're sitting on the eastern Mediterranean rather than in the middle of north county. Don't miss the baklava. No alcohol. $$. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
The Kitchen
At the Kitchen (14065 New Halls Ferry Road, Florissant; 314-831-9292), there are only four tables and an order counter. The intimate dining room almost ensures you'll feel like family, which may be why proprietors Mary Nguyen and Kristin Liu named the restaurant what they did — to evoke feelings of home. The sisters grew up in the restaurant industry after their parents opened Chinese Gourmet in Florissant in 1984. Now a portion of the Chinese Gourmet location is the Kitchen, a new take on fast-casual Chinese American cuisine. But the sisters still include some favorites from Chinese Gourmet, such as the hot braised chicken wings. Another dish is the yang chau fried rice, made with Chinese sausage, whole shrimp, pork, onion, carrot and green beans, all on a bed of yellow-tinted rice. The dish is traditionally served at Vietnamese and Chinese weddings, a fitting offering for a restaurant that celebrates family. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
Pearl Cafe
From a contemporary storefront in the heart of north county, Pearl Cafe (8416 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-831-3701) consistently offers what's arguably the best Thai food in St. Louis, with a voluminous menu of noodles, fried rice, curries and noodle soups. Innovative chef/owner Scott Truong is always looking for ways to reimagine Thai cuisine through dishes like the Phorito or Thai Burger. Add in an extensive beer selection and 150 single-malt scotches, and you'll see why Pearl Cafe is so much more than your usual Thai spot. Kids' menu. $$. Patio. Opens at 10:30 a.m. weekdays and at noon Saturday.
Pirrone's Pizzeria
For more 40 years, Pirrone's Pizzeria (1775 Washington Street, Florissant; 314-839-3633) has been serving up quintessential Sicilian American comfort food in the form of deep-fried cannelloni bites, cheese sticks and salads that consist of little more than iceberg lettuce, Provel and a heavy-handed dousing of dressing. The big draw, however, is the pizza, a rectangular riff on the St. Louis-style cracker crust with cheese just a little bit gooier and sauce a little bit sweeter than the norm. Get it with pepperoni, Italian sausage or hamburger, and revel in the delight of a vibrant orange cheesy grease-slick that pairs perfectly with a frosty mug of draft Bud Light. $$. Opens Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m. and Sunday at noon. Lunch buffet available weekdays.
Thai Kitchen
The menu at Thai Kitchen (8458 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-695-5039) consists of familiar Thai dishes, though the recipes are uniquely Andie Ongartsutthikue's, having been passed down through her mother's family for generations. Her version of the northern Thai noodle soup khao soi, for instance, is spicier than others. The warm heat is more haunting than assertive, sneaking up on the back palate and lingering. Meanwhile, a tangier, more tomato-forward presentation of curry is the base of the gang quah shrimp, a rich, brothy concoction meant to be served over rice. The star ingredient is pineapple, cut into chunks and warmed by the broth. $-$$. Open for lunch and dinner every day but Tuesday.
OVERLAND / ST. ANN
Chuck-A-Burger
The menu at Chuck-A-Burger (9025 St. Charles Rock Road, St. John, 314-427-9524) may be filled with delectable American classics like burgers, fries and malts, but the most wonderful thing served at this north county institution is pure nostalgia. For more than 50 years, the restaurant has existed as a living slice of history, maintaining the tradition of the quintessential 1950s soda fountain down to its car hops, old-school jukebox soundtrack and classic car cruise nights. This is the culinary version of poodle skirts and saddles shoes, yet it's anything but passé. Fashions may have changed since Chuck-A-Burger opened for business, but its greasy-spoon diner classics have stood the test of time. No alcohol. $. Curb service in addition to inside seating. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
El Guanaco Taqueria & Pupuseria
If you're looking for a taste of Central American cuisine, El Guanaco Taqueria & Pupuseria (10633 Page Avenue, 314-274-8022) is a top destination. Serving food from El Salvador, Honduras and Mexico, El Guanaco keeps the menu fairly traditional, offering classic versions of empanadas, pupusas and menudo (Mexican tripe soup). If you just want a basic quesadilla or taco, you can get that, too, making the restaurant a great place to try new things while still finding something for your picky children to eat. Located near the intersection of Page Avenue and Highway 67, El Guanaco offers fancy vacation-quality food in a casual location. $$. Open from 10 a.m. until 9 p.m. daily.
Fire Chicken
Located in a shoebox of a building off Page Avenue in Overland, Fire Chicken (10200 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-551-2123) seems unassuming until you taste the food. Based loosely on traditional Korean fried chicken, Fire Chicken is the brainchild of husband and wife Min and Michelle Baik, two industry veterans who, after years of running restaurants focused on Japanese cuisine, are now proudly showing off their Korean culinary heritage. The restaurant's namesake dish, a sticky sweet and searing-hot concoction of deep-fried boneless breaded chicken akin to the hot braised chicken you'd find at an American-style Chinese restaurant, is something Min has been perfecting for years. Noshing on this masterpiece, you can tell that time and care have paid off. $-$$. Open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4 to 8:30 p.m., open Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Closed Sunday.
Haveli
A nondescript building on a nondescript stretch of Page Avenue is home to an Indian restaurant whose food is anything but nondescript. Haveli (9720 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-423-7300) offers a wide selection of chicken, lamb and vegetarian dishes, with lists of specials for both omnivores and vegans. Goat curry is a standout, rich and gamy, while navratan korma is a complex vegetable dish capable of winning over the staunchest carnivore. Lunch and dinner buffets. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Nick and Elena's Pizzeria
Regulars will swear that their beloved Nick and Elena's Pizzeria (3007 Woodson Road, Breckenridge Hills; 314-427-6566) serves the best St. Louis-style pizza in town. We have to hand it to them: With a flavorful crust that's always crisped up just a little more golden brown than the town's other squares beyond compare, these cracker-thin pies have that ever-so-slight bit of extra heft that makes a St. Louis pie go from good to great. You need that sort of architecture when you're looking to pile on the pizzeria's homemade, fennel-kissed Italian sausage — the more the better. $. Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and weekends. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday.
Sides of Seoul
If you're looking for the gold standard of traditional Korean food in the bi-state area, look no further than Sides of Seoul (10084 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-942-8940). Each menu item attracts a loyal following for good reason. The spot offers a fluffy masterpiece in the form of its kimchi pancake, while its kimchi jjigae is liquid gold. We could go on and on. The robust menu offers Korean food at its finest. $. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 to 7 p.m.
MAPLEWOOD
Acero
Long before Maplewood was a dining destination, back when St. Louis' Italian restaurants were mostly limited to "white sauce or red?" there was Acero (7266 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-644-1790). Jim Fiala's flawlessly executed spot served nothing like the city had ever seen. More than a decade in, Acero feels as stylish, and essential, as ever, with menu items that include a seafood crudo and prosciutto-wrapped pastries called gnocco fritto as well as the expected pasta, fish, steak and rack of lamb. Do not skip the egg raviolo! $$$-$$$$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m.
Asador del Sur
After moving to St. Louis from Miami, Maria Giamportone and Daniel Gonzalez opened Asador del Sur (7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314-802-8587) to be a traditional South American-style grill, a place that honored their respective Ecuadorian and Uruguayan heritages. Both food and setting are luminous, with meat, seafood and wine not typically seen on St. Louis tables. Offerings include a selection of flawlessly grilled skirt steak, terrifically tender langostinos and some of the best empanadas in town. $$$$. Opens at 11:30 a.m. Wednesday through Friday, 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday and 4 p.m. Monday.
Benevolent King
From a tiny kitchen on a charming block, restaurateur Ben Poremba is reclaiming his identity as a chef with his most personal concept to date, one that draws its inspiration from his Moroccan-Israeli heritage. The falafel and chicken-filled Moroccan "cigars" are thrilling, while larger plates like the incredible lamb meatballs will blow you away at Benevolent King (7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-899-0440). With a creative cocktail list that offers some of the most thoughtful libations in town, what's in the glass stands shoulder to shoulder with what's on the plate. Small bistro tables evoke a Moroccan beachside cafe, while the shiny tiled floor and bar tops give off a swanky vintage feel. $$$$. Open from 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, with an extra hour Friday and Saturday.
Pizza Champ
Once just a pandemic project of Elmwood's Chris Kelling and Adam Altnether, Pizza Champ (2657 Lyle Avenue, Maplewood) has firmly established itself as a true neighborhood pizza joint. From its tiny brick-and-mortar location adjacent to Side Project Brewing's sister concept, Shared Brewing, Pizza Champ invites diners to grab a pizza to go from the drive-thru or enjoy it on the patio. However you enjoy it, Pizza Champ delivers an outstanding experience thanks to specialty pies like the buffalo-fried chicken, which pairs tomato sauce and mozzarella with fried chicken tossed in buffalo sauce, celery and blue cheese; the legendary taco pizza; or classics like a world-class pepperoni offering. Whatever your order, Pizza Champ promises to hit the spot. $-$$. Open Wednesday and Thursday from 2 to 8 p.m. and Friday through Sunday noon to 8 p.m.
Thai Table
The pad Thai at Thai Table (7403 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-449-6919) offers an umami bomb of soy and the complex funk of the fish sauce — just one delight in a parade of dishes that will make you rethink Thai food. The green papaya salad som tum is positively electric, while vibrant lab kai is wipe-your-forehead spicy, with flavors so addictively sour you won't be able to stop eating it. And if the noodles are excellent, the curries are positively ethereal. You simply can't go wrong on this menu. No alcohol, though there is boba tea. $$. Lunch and dinner daily (closed on Tuesday).
KIRKWOOD / WEBSTER GROVES
Balkan Treat Box
The brick-and-mortar offshoot of a wildly successful food truck, Balkan Treat Box (8103 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves; 314-733-5700) offers fast-casual food from not only Bosnia but also its neighbors. Highlights include somun stuffed with Sarajevo-style cevapi, which looks like a breakfast link but tastes more like Middle Eastern kefta. Chef/owner Loryn Nalic cooks the meat over open flames, encrusting it with wood smoke to give it a slightly crisp texture even as it remains so juicy you'd think it's been bathed in its drippings. Her Turkish pide, too, is a show-stopper, with glorious, spongy bread speckled with char, fashioned into the shape of a boat and stuffed with meat or cheese. After tasting this masterpiece, you'll understand why Balkan Treat Box consistently receives national acclaim. No alcohol. $-$$. Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
Chiang Mai
Chef Su Hill started Chiang Mai (8158 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves) as a homage to her late mother, a revered home cook who'd meticulously instructed Hill on preparing traditional Thai cuisine. The result is a menu that's full of revelatory delights that comfort and light up the palate. A small plate of house-made sausages are stuffed full of rustic cuts of pork mixed with fresh herbs and spices. Tender baby back ribs called gra dook moo are roasted with a sweet and earthy glaze, while gaeng hung lay, or succulent braised curry pork, is Hill's ultimate testament to her mother. Whatever you order, you will get not only outrageously good flavor but also a meaningful experience. $$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from noon to 8 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from noon to 9 p.m.
Frisco Barroom
Frisco Barroom (8110 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves; 314-455-1090) is a modern American tavern that is nice enough for date night but not so nice that you have to call a sitter. The restaurant is positively handsome, outfitted in exposed brick, black slate paint, wrought-iron chandeliers and a black tin ceiling. The menu, which includes boards, sandwiches and a few well-thought-out entrees, is interesting without ever venturing from being accessible. $$-$$$. Rooftop dining and a back patio. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
Honey Bee's Biscuits + Good Eats
The biscuits at Honey Bee's (200 North Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314-650-0762) are fluffy, golden and so gilded with honey, they glisten in the sunlight. They taste even better than they look: The shortbread-like exterior gives way to an almost cake-like interior with a subtle sweetness that's underscored by the honey glaze. Since June 2020, married couple Michael Shadwick and Meredith Gibbons Shadwick have been serving their signature biscuits both as standalone offerings and as the base for a variety of sandwiches and toppings. Their new-ish storefront means you no longer have to stand in line at the Kirkwood Farmers Market to partake. $. Open 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
Olive + Oak
Now that Olive + Oak (216 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-736-1370) is firmly established in its new, larger home, we can finally get a table. This is a wonderful development, as this new Webster Groves classic has endeared itself to area diners as one of the area's most essential restaurants. Owner/general manager Mark Hinkle and chef Jesse Mendica spent a good part of their restaurant careers at Annie Gunn's and brought with them the west county landmark's refined approachability to this stylish-yet-warm neighborhood eatery. Olive + Oak is the type of restaurant where you can don jeans and a T-shirt and settle into a burger and fries or dress up for cocktails, oysters and a cowboy ribeye for two. It's all flawlessly executed by Mendica, who has quickly become one of the city's biggest culinary stars. $$$-$$$$. Patio. Opens at 4 p.m. daily.
O+O Pizza
Do not get confused. In spite of its name, O+O Pizza (102 West Lockwood Ave, Webster Groves; 314-721-5422) is not just a pizza joint. Part of the Olive and Oak family of restaurants, O+O Pizza is Italian food done right. It's even earned some famous fans like St. Louis Blues Captain Ryan O'Reilly, who loved the eggplant Parmesan so much that he had two pans of it shipped to Canada so his parents could try it. The man behind the dish is chef Mike Risk, who previously worked for 12 years at Italian favorite Trattoria Marcella. The secret at O+O is simple ingredients cooked to perfection. The thin, crispy Neapolitan-style pizzas are wood-fire speckled and offer a delicious, flavorful bite even when only adorned with the restaurant's rustic tomato sauce, Fior di Latte (a type of mozzarella) and pecorino cheese, as is the case with the O+O Original. For the Casarecce cacio e pepe pasta dish, the pasta is tossed with pecorino, Parmesan, garlic and black pepper — just a few simple ingredients that add up to something special. $$-$$$. Open daily at 4 p.m.
RICHMOND HEIGHTS / BRENTWOOD
Farotto's
An OG St. Louis-style pizzeria, Farotto's (9525 Manchester Road, 314-962-0048) has been serving square-cut slices since 1956, eight years before Imo's. Anchored by its pizza, red sauce and signature salad dressing, Farotto's has helped to define the St. Louis Italian subgenre for generations of diners. Appetizers include stuffed risotto cakes, bruschetta and, for true St. Louisans, Provel sticks. It also offers lunch combos, sandwiches, burgers and pasta. Other than pizza, the dinner menu includes pasta, pistachio-encrusted salmon, chicken saltimbocca and a stuffed pork chop: 12 ounces of pig stuffed with portabella mushrooms, onions and blue cheese crumbles and then topped with apple-walnut chutney. With its extensive list of coffee cocktails, Farotto's makes for a great escape on a chilly night. $$. Open 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, with an extra half hour on Friday and Saturday.
Frank Papa's Ristorante
Frank Papa's Ristorante (2241 South Brentwood Boulevard, Brentwood; 314-961-3344) is so welcoming and serene you'd never know that it was located just south of the fourth circle of hell (the Brentwood Promenade parking lot). The cozy restaurant is an oasis of good Italian food and service. It's white-tablecloth dining but without pretense. The restaurant is known for giving you a family-style welcome and for serving a pasta dish with sauce so spicy that it's been rumored to induce labor in people at the end of their pregnancy. Now referred to as the "Eviction Notice" special, the penne amatriciana has become a traditional late-pregnancy meal among St. Louisans who are ready (and eager) to pop. $$$. Open daily except Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m.
Katie's Pizza and Pasta Osteria
The first location of Katie's Pizza and Pasta Osteria (multiple locations including 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314-942-6555) is a stunner, embodying eponymous owner Katie Lee Collier's keen eye for design. But Katie's has substance, not just style, serving thoughtful, approachable food with near-flawless execution. Katie's Famous Fried Artichokes dazzle, while brussels sprouts are perfectly charred and glazed in an Italian sweet-and-sour sauce balanced with salty pancetta. While the pizza is very good, Collier could teach a master class in pasta. $$-$$$. Patio. Opens at 11 a.m. weekdays and 10 a.m. weekends.
Mai Lee
Located in a nondescript strip mall in the shadow of a Home Depot, Mai Lee (8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood; 314-645-2835) nevertheless packs in not only hungry diners but also some of the city's top chefs and restaurateurs. Credit founder Lee Tran's flawless Vietnamese food, which includes a repertoire of approximately 200 dishes, each better than the next. Tran originally opened Mai Lee as a Chinese spot in 1985 but earned acclaim after she began introducing the cuisine of her homeland to curious local diners. Tran and her family, including her son and hospitality pro Qui, have garnered a legion of loyalists who appreciate the way the kitchen balances authenticity with accessibility, making everyone feel welcome — from the most experienced noodle slurper to a pho novice. $$-$$$. Patio. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
CLAYTON / LADUE
Almonds
For 25 years, Almonds (8127 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314-725-1019) has continued to thrive because of its dedication to customers. Tony and Kelli Almond have built relationships with their patrons since Almonds first opened its doors in 1997. Maybe it's the Southern hospitality. The Almonds have roots in Louisiana, Arkansas and Texas. Their upbringings are reflected not only in their personal warmth but also in their food. On the menu, find sauteed crawfish tails salad, chicken and sausage gumbo, Cajun shrimp and blackened tilapia. Expect a casual and comfortable dining experience enhanced by a sophisticated, white-tablecloth atmosphere. $$$. Open 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Open Saturday from 6 to 10 p.m.
Akar
Bernie Lee's intimate Akar (7641 Wydown Blvd, Clayton, 314-553-9914) is a deeply personal restaurant — one that explores the chef's roots going all the way back to his childhood in Malaysia. With a stunning interior space that seats only 14 (there's room for more on the lovely patio as weather permits), Lee is able to treat Akar like a dinner party in his own home, which means he can do what he wants just because he wants to do it. That means true fusion, with offerings such oolong tea-brined duck breast and char siu chicken joined by lobster rangoon ravioli and gnocchi in Malaysian curry. It's likely the best dinner party you'll ever get invited to. $$$-$$$$. Patio. Open 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
Casa Don Alfonso
You don't have to leave St. Louis to be whisked to the Amalfi Coast. With its gleaming marble table tops, lemon trees, hand-painted tile walls and blown-glass wisteria leaf decor, Casa Don Alfonso (100 Carondelet Plaza, inside the Ritz Carlton, Clayton; 314-719-1496) evokes the sort of ease you'd feel sipping aperitivo on an outdoor terrace in Sant'Agata. And the authentic food will truly transport. This is a "franchise," so to speak, of Don Alfonso 1890, a 100-year-old restaurant on Italy's Amalfi Coast. St. Louis is the storied restaurant's first location in the United States and uses the same recipes and techniques that gave Don Alfonso 1890 its staying power. Here you can get delectable beef carpaccio, burrata or even Grandma's Ziti, a rustic pasta made with blistered cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced cloves of garlic, chile peppers and parsley. It perfectly blends the exotic with the familiar, the elevated with the comfortable, just like Casa Don Alfonso. $$$$. Open for breakfast a la carte Tuesday through Saturday and a breakfast buffet Saturday and Sunday. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
The Crossing
Opened in 1998, the Crossing (7823 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-721-7375) has stood the test of time — remaining not only relevant but holding its own in the city's crème de la crème. The restaurant owes its staying power to owner Jim Fiala's beautiful fusion of French and Italian cuisine and his prowess with classical techniques, exemplified by dishes like his luscious three-cheese egg ravioli or pan-seared foie gras with berries. Fiala was doing "farm to table" long before it was a buzzword. $$$$. Opens weekdays at 11:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. on Saturday. Closed Sunday.
Half & Half
At Half & Half (8135 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314-725-0719), Mike and Liz Randolph bring to breakfast and lunch the same level of care, quality and service typically reserved for evening restaurants — and fine-dining ones at that. Half & Half keeps it approachable with classics such as biscuits and gravy, French toast and blueberry pancakes — only they're the best versions of each you'll find anywhere. Add top-shelf coffee offerings and thoughtful service, and it's early morning bliss. $-$$. Opens 7 a.m. Wednesday through Friday and 8 a.m. weekends; closes at 2 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Patio.
Herbie's
Herbie's (8100 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314-769-9595) move to Clayton was more of a merger than a simple relocation — which is why loyalists of both the original Herbie's as well as Cardwell's will feel nostalgic when they step inside 8100 Maryland Avenue. Chef Bonzo still stands at attention at the front door, and those vintage posters from Herbie's are here; the difference is that they hang on walls in a room that is laid out exactly like Cardwell's. With talented chef Bill Cawthon now leading the kitchen, the restaurant has taken on the vibe of French bistro meets modern seasonal American eatery. Gluten-free and vegetarian menus available. $$$$. Sidewalk seating. Opens at 11 a.m. on weekdays and 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Louie
At Louie (706 De Mun Avenue, Clayton; 314-300-8188), Matt McGuire has created the sort of restaurant where everyone wants to eat — which makes it an incredibly difficult reservation to score. The small, shotgun dining room, simply appointed with wooden tables, exposed ductwork and a wall of striking, floral-print wallpaper, fills quickly. If the dining room is lovely in its simplicity, the food is even more so. A relatively compact menu of Italian-inflected cuisine anchors the restaurant, with pizza, pasta and simple roast chicken executed flawlessly. Bar reserved for walk-in diners. $$$-$$$$. Open 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Pastaria
Acclaimed chef Gerard Craft turns his attention to Italian cuisine at Pastaria (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-862-6603), a large, bustling restaurant in downtown Clayton. The cuisine is simple and outrageously good. Pasta, made in-house, stars in dishes both simple (the sublime chitarra aglio e olio) and sexy and sophisticated (the luscious pistachio ravioli). Pizzas, on a thin crust, are akin to Neapolitan style. You can opt for an American-style pepperoni pie, its meat cured by the restaurant, or a more ambitious pizza with bechamel and roasted mushroom. Save room for dessert, especially the gelato. Family friendly. No reservations; expect a wait. $$$. Open 4 to 9 p.m. daily.
Pastaria Deli & Wine
An elevated deli from the mind of acclaimed chef Gerard Craft, Pastaria Deli & Wine (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, 314-773-7755) is a companion to Clayton mainstay Pastaria. The deli was tailor-made to complement the popular pizza and pasta eatery with carryout-friendly items like sandwiches and salads that could be enjoyed in a park or in the backyard with friends. But just because the items are offered to go does not mean any quality or care has been sacrificed. The standout chicken-salad sandwich comes dressed in aioli with pepperoncini, celery, chives, oregano and Castelvetrano olives. Definitely don't sleep on the mouthwatering chocolate chip cookie made with brown butter. $$. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Peno Soul Food
Like Italy's "dirty south," Peno (7600 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-899-9699) is brash, casual and infused with the flavors of the ocean. While the menu changes daily, expect dishes you'd be served if you were a guest in someone's Calabrian beach house. Chef Pepe Kehm has boldly crafted a menu of traditional southern Italian dishes like anchovy and calabrian chile toast, braised octopus and spaghetti with clams. It's a far cry from the red-sauce joints that the city often mistakes for Italian cooking — and that's exactly the point. $$$. Opens Tuesday through Sunday at 5 p.m.
Tony's
You'll have great food at Tony's (105 Carondelet Plaza, 314-231-7007). You'll eat carpaccio kissed with truffle that melts on the tongue and lingers like a lover's embrace. You'll have life-changing risotto or a black-pepper-rubbed prime strip steak. There is also great wine, desserts and everything in between. But perhaps Tony's biggest accomplishment is making a refined, upscale experience feel lighthearted and easy. Servers, assistants and maitre d's have all mastered the art of making every last person feel like a VIP in on a secret as they whisper clever asides to the table or laugh amongst themselves as they prepare the antipasti — in a way that always lets you in on the joke. You feel less like their esteemed guest and more like a friend by the time dinner ends — something you'll pray never has to happen. $$$$. Open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Tuesday through Saturday for dinner at 5 p.m. Dress code (no shorts).
Truffles Restaurant
Chef Brandon Benack's oft-changing menu fuses rustic northern Italian cuisine with the local, seasonal produce of the Midwest. At Truffles (9202 Clayton Road, Ladue; 314-567-9100), the pastas are exquisite and appetizers like roasted bone marrow and housemade burrata will make it difficult to save room for the main course, but with such good seafood and meat options (including a full roster of steaks, served black and blue, Tuscan style or à la Oscar), you must. The adjacent Truffles Butchery is strictly a grab-and-go operation, offering not just a line of sandwiches but also soup, fresh-baked bread and takeaway pot pies. Wine list has received numerous awards. $$$$. Open 5 to 8 p.m. daily.
THE LOOP / UNIVERSITY CITY / OLIVETTE
Cate Zone Chinese Cafe
The Hot Crisp Fish at Cate Zone (8148 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-738-9923) is one of those dishes that makes you fall in love with a restaurant. Whole peppers accompany hunks of panko-breaded whitefish, staining the breadcrumbs bright orange. Sichuan peppercorns — all five types — speckle the vibrant red chiles coating your mouth with a menthol-esque tingle. It's just one of the show-stopping offerings at this modern Chinese restaurant. The cumin lamb is dazzling; the Honey Crisp Sweet Potatoes are a majestic, cotton-candy-like concoction of spun sugar; and the Korean cold noodle soup is so funky with bean curd it could've been made by George Clinton. No alcohol. $$. Open from 11 am to 3 pm and 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
ChiliSpot
A relative newcomer to U. City, ChiliSpot (7930 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-925-8711) is a worthy addition to the phenomenal Asian cuisine options along Olive Boulevard. The comprehensive menu makes this the ideal place to come with a group of friends and sample several entrees and even more sides. For the spice lovers, the Chongqing spicy popcorn chicken is a modern twist on a classic, and the Szechuan spicy wonton is a classic dish done to perfection. But don't worry, there are also plenty of options for diners who don't like heat. $$. Open for lunch and dinner daily except Wednesday.
Corner 17
Corner 17 (6623 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-727-2402) is a U. City staple. Bubble tea and freshly made noodles are served at this beloved spot, as well as plump baos and satisfying soups. Immigrant owned and run, Corner 17 puts its chefs front and center, literally. The focal point of the dining room is a window into the noodle-making station. Watch cooks stretch and slice the dough as you settle into the space. You might want to be prepared to wait, though. Lines to get in snaked down Delmar after a social media influencer tried to diss the restaurant last year, and what followed was a show of fierce support from the rest of St. Louis. $. Open Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Frank & Helen's Pizzeria
Less a restaurant than an institution, Frank & Helen's Pizzeria (8111 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-997-0666) has been firing up its charcoal broiler since 1956, solidifying its place as the go-to spot for three generations of University City families. You'll find the same cheesy-baked pastas, the same char-grilled ribeyes with sides of fettuccine and, of course, the same broasted chicken — a special way of pressure-frying the bird that results in impossibly succulent meat and a crispy, non-greasy coating. But if there is one thing you must order at Frank & Helen's, it's the pizza, one of the best St. Louis-style thin-crust pies in town. Beer and wine only. $-$$. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 4 to 9 p.m. and 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Friday.
Fork & Stix
Tucked in a small storefront off a side street on the eastern edge of the Loop, Fork & Stix (549 Rosedale Avenue, 314-863-5572) focuses on food from Thailand's northern "second city," Chiang Mai. That includes the fiery nam prik num, a chile dip served with vegetables and rice, and the lovely, lemongrass-perfumed pork sausages called sai oua. Every last dish is prepared with the same care you'd find in the area's top fine-dining restaurants, but if one thing stands above the rest, it's the khao soi, a yellow curry egg noodle soup so revelatory it's haunting. No alcohol. $$. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday, and for dinner only on Sunday.
Frida's
Thanks to a newly expanded kitchen and a standalone bar concept, there are even more reasons to love Frida's (622 North and South Road, University City; 314-727-6500). The original restaurant in Natasha Kwan and Rick Roloff's mini-empire (which now includes Diego's and Station No.3) has transformed over the years from a vegetarian deli into a sophisticated pescetarian restaurant, complete with stylish design touches and a menu of fare as healthful as it is delicious. $$. Sidewalk seating. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m. and 4-10 p.m., Friday from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m. and 4 to midnight, and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. until midnight.
Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum
The grand entrance sets you up for what follows at Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum (8224 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-997-3108); what awaits you at this festively decorated University City institution is no less than a multisensory feast. Lu Lu is fiercely authentic. The restaurant has four chefs from four different regions in China and one chef dedicated solely to dim sum, resulting in dishes that are created by experts in the cuisine of their origin. Yet as traditional as Lu Lu may be, what sets it apart is a welcoming spirit that embraces first-timers as warmly as regulars. Lazy Susan tables make exploration particularly easy for big parties. $$$. Opens at 11 a.m. to 9:30 Sunday through Thursday with an extra half hour on Friday and Saturday. Cart service on Saturday.
Mission Taco Joint
Inspired by spots in San Francisco's Mission District, brothers Adam and Jason Tilford opened the first Mission Taco Joint (multiple locations including 6235 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-932-5430) on the Loop in 2013, bringing a breezy, West Coast-style street-taco shack to St. Louis. Mission Taco Joint begins with a respect for traditional tacos, then infuses the form with culinary creativity, resulting in offerings like slow-roasted duck with ancho chile glaze, wood-fired portobello mushrooms with goat cheese and succulent beef-brisket birria. And did we mention the margaritas? $-$$. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday with an extra hour on Friday and Saturday.
Soup Dumplings STL
After making a name for himself with the now-shuttered upscale restaurant Private Kitchen, chef Lawrence Chen has found lasting success with its offshoot, St. Louis Soup Dumplings (8106 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-445-4605). The restaurant is entirely dedicated to the handmade, liquid-filled Shanghai-style dumplings that have sent Chen's guests into a frenzy since he began serving them at Private Kitchen, and it's easy to understand why. Though this is a casual concept, the dumplings are serious business, filled with either chicken, pork, fish, shrimp, beef or vegetarian-friendly fillings. That such a tiny, delicate package can contain so much juice, filling and flavor is an impressive feat, and only possible from someone as skilled as Chen. $. Open every day except Tuesday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Salt + Smoke
Salt + Smoke (multiple locations including 6525 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-727-0200) serves the best brisket in town. That's not controversial. What may be a little more contentious, though, is an even bolder statement — Salt + Smoke serves some of the best brisket in the country. Tom Schmidt opened this full-service, bourbon-centric barbecue spot in 2014, a time when every food publication in town was noting the over-saturation of the barbecue market. But Schmidt knew he was onto something, and his killer 'cue proves his point. From the type of wood used to smoke the beef (post oak, of course) to the 18-hour smoke time, Salt + Smoke is the real deal — one reason it's successfully expanded its footprint across the region. If you're not a barbecue person, order a dish of the white-cheddar Cracker Mac and try not to fall in love. $-$$. Sidewalk dining. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday with an extra late hour Friday and Saturday.
Seoul Taco
Seoul Taco (6665 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-863-1148) has gone from a wildly popular food truck to a tiny brick-and-mortar to a much bigger one — with locations from Columbia to Champaign to Chicago. The flagship is a low-lit, street-art-infused spot on the Loop, with modern Korean-inflected fusion fare served from a counter to the neighborhood's young, hip denizens. If you've ever had the bulgogi burrito, packed with mouthwatering kimchi-fried rice, you'll see how a humble truck built a Midwestern Korean-Mexican empire. $. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
Sugarfire Smoke House
Sugarfire Smoke House (multiple locations including 9200 Olive Boulevard, Olivette; 314-997-2301) is a perennial readers' choice favorite for best barbecue, as well as a strong contender in the increasingly crowded fast-casual category. And rightly so: What could be faster or more efficient than going through Sugarfire's cafeteria-style line and choosing among the numerous cuts of smoked meat and creative sides? The only thing that might slow your journey toward overeating is the way Mike Johnson's growing chain comes up with new and intriguing options on every visit. The Olivette flagship is surprisingly big and often busy, but don't worry: The line moves fast. $$. Patio. Opens at 11 a.m. daily.
Taco Buddha
When Taco Buddha (7405 Pershing Avenue, University City; 314-502-9951) first opened in 2017, customers poured in, tempted by delicious tacos and margaritas. Still, owner Kurt Eller knew the restaurant was capable of more and, over the past couple of years, he and his team have turned the casual eatery into a top-notch dining destination. The menu contains dishes full of bold, international flavors, like the Thai taco, made with Thai braised and griddled beef with red onions, cabbage and cotija cheese, all wrapped in a flour tortilla. Plus, don't miss the delicious margaritas, just the thing to cool you down while sitting out on the restaurant's airy and spacious patio in the summer. $-$$. Covered patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Tai Ke Shabu Shabu
The first restaurant in St. Louis dedicated solely to Taiwanese cuisine is anchored by "street snacks," tapas-sized items intended to be eaten with your hands as you walk around Taipei's Blade Runner-style night markets. Tai Ke originally opened in University City, but the nearby Costco development forced business partners Alu Sun and Calvin Koong to move to Olivette. With an expanded space, they were able to add shabu shabu, an individualized Taiwanese hot pot, to the menu. Tai Ke Shabu Shabu (9626 Olive Boulevard, Olivette; 314-801-8411) still offers the Taiwanese snack food that made it so popular. Small plates like Sticky Rice Cube, a platter of congealed pieces of pork blood interspersed with rice to form a handful of gelatinous cakes, are surprisingly approachable. Among entrees, Three Cup Tofu, with pillow-soft squares of bean curd tossed in a mouthwatering sauce that is equal parts rice wine vinegar, soy sauce and sesame oil, redefines comfort food. $$. Closed Tuesdays. Open daily at 11 a.m.
U-City Grill
From the outside, this University City classic looks like any other greasy spoon, but when you head inside U-City Grill (6696 Enright Avenue, University City; 314-721-3073) and read the posted menu, you don't see burgers, slingers or french fries. Instead, you can get bulgogi beef with rice and bean sprouts, Korean hot soup, kimbob — a Korean-style vegetarian roll — or just a side of kimchi. The unassuming exterior has probably fooled many passersby; don't be one of them. $. Open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Closed Sunday.
Wonton King
The dim sum spread here is one of the best in town. However, there is so much more to Wonton King (8116 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-567-9997) than what rolls by the table every Saturday and Sunday. The Hong Kong-style eatery boasts a menu of expertly prepared dishes, including traditional congee made with everything from preserved egg to pork to kidney; fiery hot pots; and Hong Kong-braised noodles. The true mark of this restaurant's greatness is the whole roasted duck, a feat of culinary prowess that combines crispy skin with incredibly juicy meat. The only thing better than this delectable dish is pairing it with an array of dim sum selections for a feast that is fit for a king. Beer and wine only. $$-$$$. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Cart service Saturday and Sunday.
WEST COUNTY
Annie Gunn's
More pub than club, Annie Gunn's (16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield; 636-532-7684) is not the kind of place you get dressed up for. Still, the food is as good as it gets, with an on-site SmokeHouse Market, where meats are cured, dry-aged and hand-cut. If you don't have a reservation, securing a table might take as long as three hours. But when you sink your teeth into Chef Lou Rook III's grilled-to-order ribeye and get your mitts around a glass of red from the 700-bottle list, you'll forget all about the wait and begin hatching a plan to come back again ASAP. Not into steak? Burgers, sandwiches and specialties like smoked shrimp are all excellent choices. $$$-$$$$. Patio. Opens daily at 11 a.m. Closed Monday.
China Bistro at Pan-Asia Supermarket
Tucked next to an Academy Sports in an unassuming Ballwin strip mall sits Pan-Asia Supermarket — one of the area's largest Asian grocery stores. Yet even more deceivingly low-key is a tiny Chinese eatery located off to the side of the supermarket's sprawling aisles of every imaginable Asian product. China Bistro (14246 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-220-9999) will serve you some of the most authentic, delicious Chinese food in St. Louis. Our favorites include the Singapore sweet rice noodles, stir-fried rice with barbecue pork and eggplant with garlic sauce. China Bistro tends to be busy during lunch and dinner hours. If you plan on doing some shopping, we recommend placing your order before perusing the store. $. Open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Curry Club
Indian restaurants are a frequent lunch favorite, but it's hard to say who does midday better than Curry Club (1635 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield; 636-778-7777), which bills itself as a fast-food takeout place for Indian food lovers. The lunch special (vegetarian or not) contains two curries of choice plus rice and naan. Its popularity is only rivaled by the restaurant's extensive dosa selection, all of which are grilled behind the counter in view of customers — a sight that makes the savory crepes hard to resist. But Curry Club offers much more than these two genres: the menu sports a plentitude of curries, biryanis, apps, snacks, beverages and specials. $-$$. Open Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
El Toluco
Since opening as a grocery store in 2016 (the in-house taqueria opened about six months later), El Toluco (14234 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-686-5444) has become a gathering place for St. Louis County's growing Latin community. The restaurant is bare bones, but guacamole and various handcrafted sauces, ranging from mild to fiery, are prepared daily. Tacos, burritos, chile relleno and other Mexican favorites are all available at shockingly low prices. The grocery stocks Mexican delicacies, including meats, juices, desserts, produce and Mexican Coke. Beer and wine only. $. Open Tuesday to Thursday and Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Friday from 10: 30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience
An intimate restaurant with an equally small menu, Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience (15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville; 636-220-8514) is rooted in history: The menu is based on the old family recipes of matriarch Doña María Gutiérrez Molina. Let the space take you on a journey through regional Mexican cuisine while the food changes your perception of the typical Tex-Mex dish with offerings like the rich mole ozumbeño. The restaurant honors dishes from Mexico City on Mondays and does an authentic taco night on Tuesdays. A blink-and-you'll-miss-it spot, Malinche is one you want to keep your eye out for. $$. Open Monday through Thursday from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m.
Nudo House
Behind the fast-casual model at Nudo House (multiple locations including 11423 Olive Boulevard, Creve Coeur; 314-274-8046) is a decidedly slow-food ethos, with broths and meats simmering and marinating for days to maximize flavor. The restaurant's signature Classic Nudo shows how much beauty can come from taking so much time and care with food. Tender slices of pork belly marinate for two days and are then braised before being allowed to grace the masterful pork tonkatsu broth, which tastes as if the entire essence of pork has been distilled into one spoonful. Vegetarians, meanwhile, should thrill to the Shroomed Out. It has the luxurious texture typically reserved for cream-based soups, with a deep umami taste that mimics the satisfaction of beef stew. With ramen this good, it's no wonder Nudo House has been positively packed since its opening. $$. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
The Tavern Kitchen and Bar
In Valley Park, the Tavern (2961 Dougherty Ferry Road, Valley Park; 636-825-0600) does American comfort food, but elevated. You can get shrimp and grits, Spanish paella or a surf-and-turf tasting board. While the name may make it sound like a humble joint to hoist a few with friends (and you can do that), you'd be missing out if you didn't try the food. Those with dietary restrictions rejoice; there is a gluten-free and vegetarian menu. $$$-$$$$. Covered patio seating. Open at 5 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday.
The Village Bar
Burgers and beers have soothed generations of regulars at the Village Bar (12247 Manchester Road, Des Peres; 314-821-4532). The beloved local watering hole has been in business since Manchester was a dirt road. Not a hole-in-the-wall by any stretch of the imagination, the tavern boasts staying power that has made it a multigenerational center of the Des Peres community, even if Des Peres didn't exist at the time the Village Bar served its first beer. Though it's changed hands over the years, its essential character has not: It remains a laid-back place to sit back, relax and enjoy a hearty burger. In addition to above-average bar food, the Village Bar sets itself apart with its distinct red-and-white pinstripe exterior. It's impossible to miss when driving along Manchester. $. Patio. Opens at 11 a.m. daily.
Westchester
Approaching Westchester (127 Chesterfield Towne Center, Chesterfield; 636-778-0636) in its Anywhere, USA, strip mall, you might start to get nervous. Don't be: The minute you enter the restaurant, you enter a wormhole into a gilded, speakeasy-style dining room you'd find in 1920s Detroit. Chef Matt Glickert's fare is equally transportive and mashes up the farm-to-table dining aesthetic with elevated classics. That means that the roasted beet salad — delicate local greens, beets medley, pickled onions, goat cheese — sits with equal status next to standouts like a herb-marinated filet mignon and a roasted chicken that rises above other roasted birds thanks to locally raised chicken. That this can happen in such an unexpected place is not just good restaurant know-how — it's magic. $$$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wudon
Since opening in 2016, Wudon (1261 Castillons Arcade Plaza, Creve Coeur; 314-628-1010) has developed quite a following among the area's Korean community. The crowd means you'll be bumping into other patrons, hovering over the tables as others eat and risking a burn as servers rush by with searing-hot griddles. This bustling scene, however, contributes to Wudon's festive atmosphere. Guests are treated to a kaleidoscope of impossibly fresh banchan — crisp cabbage kimchi, snappy bean sprouts, ginger-scented root vegetables, funky fish cakes. But only a fool would fail to save room for the barbecue. Cooked tabletop to your specifications, it's absolutely delicious. You might also want to try the kitchen's transcendent osam-bulgogi or spicy squid and pork belly. $$-$$$. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
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